Archive for the ‘Backpacker's Challenges’ Category

When I told my friends that I was gonna stay in India for a while, they were all shocked. Some of them were worried: “How on earth are you going to survive there with only Indian food?”; but most of them were happy with the perspective that I’d lose either some weight or my food fussiness. They know I’m scared of Indian food! When I was in Malaysia, whenever I ate out with my friends, the first thing came out of my mouth was: “No Indian food please!!”. Curry makes me cry and I hate the little monster called “jeera”. If there were 1 reason why I shouldn’t go to India, it’d probably be jeera. Its strong smell can keep me 7 hours flying away!

[Jeera gives very strong flavor which many people associate with Indian food]

So I came to Indian with that curse foreshadowing my only habit and hobby [aka “eating”], and then things got worse.

Indian food is S P I C Y!!! The worst thing is that Indians use a totally different standard for spicy food. For example, when I went to a Chinese restaurant in Pune (I’ve been sticking with Chinese food for my own safety), I told the guy who took my order that I wanted “no spicy, no chilly” food and used the body language to explain “suicide”. He nodded in sympathy: “No chilly” and brought me a plate from which I could pick out that much chilly after half an hour scrutinizing. If not for I’m in India, I’d think that he deliberately did that to murder me.

When I showed the picture to my Indian friends hoping for some comfort, they all told me the same: “This chilly is not spicy.” You’re kidding me!!! In Indian standard, it’s not spicy; but in my standard, it’s enough to peel my tongue’s skin and make my jump in pain for one whole week.

Not only that, after 1 week in Mumbai, I found my stomach craving for some green veggie. When I say “green veggie”, I mean veggie which is green by nature, and still green after being cooked. In India, they eat a lot of veggie, but most of them are bulbs, wheat and the way they cook makes it far different from the veggie I’m used to. If you are familiar with Vietnamese or Chinese food, you will see that we eat a lot green veggie like cabbage, Chinese cabbage, field cabbage, cress, morning glory, water dropwort, plus many more kinds of veggie that I don’t know the English words for them.

And my body is dying for some meat!!

Even though I’m still struggling to find what I want to do, I know one thing for sure is that I will never become a vegetarian. I worship meat.

I never thought it would become a problem one day, until I came to India – a country where, according to my friend Kranti [a vegetarian himself], vegetarians account for 70% of total population or even more. Almost all restaurants are vegetarian. Almost all my friends are vegetarian. During my 3 weeks here, I’ve met more vegetarians I’d met during the course of my life!! I started to develop a phobia against eating out with an Indian as I’m afraid that I’d end up in a vegetarian no matter what. I feel deep sympathy for vegetarians in the land full of cold-blood carnivore like me.

But I never understood the reason why would someone become a vegetarian by choice. Most of them told me that they didn’t like meat which makes absolutely no sense to me,  some of them are worried about global warming (FYI, livestock – cows and pigs - is responsible for 18 percent of the world’s greenhouse gas problem). And then something changed my mind. I walked by a local market and saw the most horrifying scene ever.

The chicken was still alive.

They cut its head.

And then they did like this. The legs were still trembling in pain.

Soon it was all left of a chicken :-(

For the first time in my life, I considered becoming a vegetarian.

P/S:

1. This post was supposed to be posted 1 week ago, before I discovered Colaba! Thanks to this wonder metropolitan area, now everyone can have meat!

2. My first week in India was awesome! Thanks to Auntie Ramitha – Antoreep’s Mom, I was introduced to awesomely amazing Bengali cuisine. I love Bengali food, I love luchi, I love hilsa fish, I love mango chutney. I shall blog about Bengali food soon!

3. Question: Hindus don’t eat meat and there are a lot of cows in India, so where does all the beef go after the cow die?

So it’s called “hitch-hiking”, not “thumb-picking” like I thought. I knew that in some countries, you can use your thumb to stop a car and get a lift, but I never thought that I could do it in Asia until I came to Chiang Mai last last Sunday.

I was there for a youth media camp which is cloistered in the middle of nowhere, about 40 minutes from downtown Chiang Mai. We were all arranged to stay in a very nice resort, with nice people.

Everything was perfect except the fact that it’s a RESORT! We all felt like we were in a 5-star prison.

There were 3 of us: Phuong (whom we jokingly call Phiona) – a cute Hanoian girl (all girls from Hanoi are cute); and Nickey – a cheerful half American half Burmese. We were standing in front of the resort.

Phiona: “I want to go downtown.”

Chip: “Agree.”

Nickey: “How? It’s very far.”

Chip: “Agree.”

Phiona: “There is no bus, no tuk-tuk, not even taxi here.”

Chip: “Agree.”

Nickey: “Let’s go back to the resort.”

Chip: “Agree.”

Then we all went back to the resort, had dinner and went to bed. Ladies and gentlemen, you just wasted 5 minutes on a non-sense story.

lol of course we didn’t do that, and I didn’t say any “Agree” word. Here is what really happened.

We were standing in front the resort. A pick-up truck passed by. We raised our thumb and to our surprise, the car stopped. We tried to tell the driver that we wanted to go downtown but he couldn’t speak English. After few failed attempts with both body language and map, we decided to just jump on the truck.

Every now and then, we had discussion like: “Where are they taking us to?”, “How are we going to go back?”; but generally, we were overwhelmed. The view was stunning. We shouted and waved at every car passing by. Some shouted back, some just stared at us as if they had never seen aliens before.

The truck stopped at a petrol station and the car driver exchanged us for 3 liters of petrol. But the lady at the station thought that we were not worth that much. She came closer and checked upon us. She asked us where we wanted to go, in English. It turned out that the driver took us here to facilitate communication. The driver was going to another direction, so lady instructed us to get down at the intersection, then take the yellow bus downtown.

Here we are, at the intersection with the truck driver and his wife. [Chip is not short, Phuong is just too tall T_T]

The intersection turned out to be a diverse pottery market, so we decided to check it out before heading downtown.

Thailand – the land of smile

I wonder if he got wifi there.

Nickey found his long lost twins.

 

After that, we tried to hitch-hike several times in vain, then we saw the yellow bus – “songtheo” in Thai. They have different colors to go to different areas.

It cost B10 ($0.3) each to downtown. We were immediately tempted by a wide range of street food near Chiang Mai Gate. Oii food!

Phuong tried out the salted & sour papaya salad. I already had it at Katay’s home in Laos during Lao New Year.

After fulfilling our stomach, we walked around downtown Chiang Mai. This part of Chiang Mai I didn’t go to when I was there about 6 months ago.

Please do ignore the dump on the bottom left.

 

Love the pun

Didn’t want to miss the introduction dinner nor get lost in the dark, we left the city at around 6.30pm. We took the yellow bus to the intersection area – this time it cost B15 each, then hitch-hiked again back to the resort. Hitch-hiking this time was much easier as almost all the cars stopped right when we hailed them. However, not all the trucks passed by our resort, we had to catch, jump and stop 3 times in total. Feeling happy and relaxed, we sang all the way home. There I discovered that Phuong had an amazing voice. She’s actually a professional singer.

It cost us only B25, less than $1, each to go downtown and come back. Isn’t it amazing?

Some take-away notes:

1. Pick-up trucks are very popular in Chiang Mai. May – a Thai friend I met at the camp – told me that it’s because pick-up trucks are very convenient. People can use it to pick up people and transfer goods at the same time.

2. Thai people are friendly and very helpful.

3. Hitch-hiking in rural area is much easier than in town.

4. Thai food is amazing.

19
Jul

Thanks God, I’m in Burma!

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I’m in Burma!

I still can’t believe it, I’m here in Burma – a close country, hard to get in and hard to get out; one of few countries that are still under dictatorships; the only country in SEA that the Vietnamese need visa to visit; yet I’ve also heard that it’s an amazing & beautiful country. 6 months ago, I tried but failed. I planned to go to Yangon from Kuala Lumpur, transiting in Chiang Mai but then all flights to Yangon this week were cancelled which gave me an unexpected trip around Chiang Mai.

This time, I planned to cross border from Thailand to Burma, and then from Burma to India or Bangladesh. After few researches, I soon realized that crossing border both in and out of Burma is impossible as all border lands are locked (you can cross Thailand – Burma border to visit some places in Burma, but you won’t be able to travel deep into Burmese territory). I had to take flights instead. However, since Burma is under sanction of most countries, flights to and from Yangon are extremely limited. There used to be direct flights from Yangon to Kolkata by Indian Airlines but the route was terminated for some reasons that I don’t know. The cheapest way to go from Yangon to Bangladesh or India is to transit in Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur by Air Asia. I booked the tickets during promotion time and it cost me 100USD for both tickets from Yangon to Kuala Lumpur & from Kuala Lumpur to Kolkata.

Burma’s government just issued a new law that allows tourists to apply for visa on arrival, provided that you have a return flight ticket, 2 passport photos, reservation at a licensed hotel and at least 300USD. The process turned out to be very fast and easy. You just need to fill in a form and pay $30, they don’t even ask for your return flight ticket or hotel booking. Unlike in other country, people at Yangon airport are friendly and they smile all the time :-) I think the government is trying to attract more tourists.

You might want to ask why I use “Burma” instead of “Myanmar”. I just had a talk with Chan – a Burmese friend of mine about that. Chan doesn’t like the word “Burma”, as it stands for only 1 ethnic group while there are 153 (or 154?) ethnic groups in Burma. She’s right.

Wish me luck!